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Return to top The north-east PINK granite rocks as big as houses, yellow splashes of beach in secluded coves, and green swathes of macchia and myrtle and juniper - this is Sardinia's most picturesque coastline.

In the early Sixties, the Aga Khan and friends bought up the loveliest stretch, the Costa Smeralda, and turned it into a playground for the rich.

Tourism concentrates in the four corners, each with its own flavour.

The Costa Smeralda in the north-east is flagrantly ritzy; the south-east gears itself to simple family beach holidays; the south-west is upmarket but restrained; while the north-west, focused on the old walled town of Alghero, is unpretentious.

Outside July and August it can be utterly lifeless.

Baia Sardinia Immediately west of the Costa Smeralda, but less stuffy, this is a compact, purpose-built but attractive resort.

Its two dozen hotels are enveloped by steep rocky slopes and greenery; the 250yd-long sandy beach (watersports and boat trips) and the promenade of shops, cafes and restaurants above it are a short stroll from most hotels.

Where to eat Most restaurants, especially those in Porto Cervo, are overrated and overpriced.

For the price of a single course in some, you could dine on shellfish pasta, lamb chops and seadas (fried cheese pastries in honey) at La Vecchia Costa, out towards Arzachena, the area's best down-to-earth restaurant: £15.

Nightlife Trendiest places are the Piazzetta in Porto Cervo village (especially the chic bar Il Portico), and Sottovento and Sopravento nightclubs (entry about £11).

One side is a yacht marina, the other is the "village" - an outdoor mall tiered down the hillside where shop windows display Armani furs, Versace suits and Gucci bags as if they are priceless works of art.

The best of the accessible beaches lie to the south.




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